The
Bowline
Strength: 50% (normal), 40% (abnormal)
This can be used for tying a rope around a belay but is most
often used for tying the end of a safety line rope around a
person when belaying them up a climb or ladder. This knot
does have a tendency to loosen and can come undone so it is a
good idea to used a half hitch to secure the "tail" of
the knot to the loop.
The Dutch Marine Bowline
The Dutch Navy uses this variant of the bowline. And, of course,
the Dutch sailor says this one is superior. The
working end is not so easy pushed back by accident, they say. I
think it is just a difference in culture.
Figure-of-eight knot
Strength: 55% (normal), 40% (abnormal)
This is a very versatile knot most commonly used for attaching
ropes to anchor points. Most things that can be done with
fancier knots (e.g. double loop knots for a Y-belay) can also be
done with a suitable combination of figure of eights. If you
only learn one knot, make it this one.
If the loop is to be tied round something (round "your
waist" for instance) you first tie an eight then lay the
loop and double the eight. It is important to have enough rope
for the loop. It requires experience, so start practicing.
Figure-of-nine knot
Strength: 70% (normal), 55% (abnormal)
The figure-of-nine knot can be used as an alternative to the
figure-of-eight. It is very similar to a figure-of-eight with
just an extra turn before finishing the knot. It is a little
bulkier than the figure-of-eight but has greater strength.
Tape/Water Knot
This knot is primarily used for tying tapes into slings for
caving or climbing. The ends of the tape emerging from the knot
should be secured to the tape loop using half hitches or
insulating tape. This knot is tied so that the load
bearing tape emerges from opposite sides of the knot so it will
sit naturally when the sling is in use.
